- User Since
- Aug 11 2017, 3:36 PM (84 w, 11 h)
I did a recent pull of the repo and it does say to add thread lock to machined idlers, but it doesnt say anything about pullies. Also what type of thread lock are we using on the idlers? The qc sheet does not specify.
When I tried other usb sticks I did not get this issue. I am pretty sure it was just due to a corrupt usb.
Packaging part numbers :
SH-PA0060: TazPro, Top Endcap Foam, 1.7 lb. Density Polyethylene Foam, Black
Thu, Mar 21
Wed, Mar 20
Tue, Mar 19
Ohai-kit has been created and ready for review.
I just followed the steps in the current ohai and had no problems.
@oliver did someone ask for this or just something you think we should do?
Mon, Mar 18
I will create an ohai-kit that shows how to do the glass technique.
Ok then, I updated the ohai-kit to say 2in lbs.
Do you see any issue with the screw sticking out a little?
@west any thoughts?
@franklin which ohai does this need to mentioned in?
This ohai looks good.
Looks good logan. Double space.
There are no pics of attaching the extruder cap. Is this going to be done at calibration?
Step 20 does not show using the green spacer to set the distance from the control box.
And we can prolly remove the cable clips since they are supposed to be getting on when the frame is being built.
@logan any particular reason we are putting on the tool head after the control box?
Fri, Mar 15
Since @paulette is not here today I went ahead and tried all the above options. I tried two different brand new usb cables and the restart still occurred. I tried the cables in all the different usb ports that were built into the cpu so I don't think its the hub. I also grabbed a different printer, quiver 13, and still the restart happened. I also took the printer to a few other work stations, Bustard, Sapsucker, and Thrush. I was not able to re-create the restart on any of those workstations. I was however able to re-create the restart on Mallard when I went to use that work station. I do not feel there is anything wrong with the printer but I do think there is an issue with the Mallard and Cahow computers. I'm not sure what it could be but in my opinion after checking different cables, computers and printers, those two work stations have some kind of bug or short or just worn out.
Quiver 16 still wipes a little to the left but it is better.
On quiver 14, the left side wipes nice and good, on the right side though it still wipes to the left.
@anolen Ive been able to test this on one machine so far and it appears to be wiping more centered. The wipes for the calibration cube are still wiping to the left but that may be more of a general firmware thing than gcode.
Tue, Mar 12
I was able re-creat this issue on both Quiver 8 and 10 once I updated to .100 firmware. I was not able to do this with the older .91 firmware.
Wed, Mar 6
@matth is there any chance you could jabber me a vid of it? I may be able to help.
Tue, Mar 5
Just did another round of drop testing.
@karrad I can not reproduce this on 22.214.171.124. When I move in small incraments, the lvd will pause until the z-axis catches up then I can continue to move the axis.
@karrad I would get around 100-150 mm before it would restart. I am going to try that new firmware this morning.
Mon, Mar 4
Thu, Feb 28
So I have found the wipe location for the calibration cube and the start gcode are wiping in different locations. This could explain why we are getting different wipes during different tests.
@logan checking now.
@logan yes both wiping too far to the left.
This might be a cause of the same issue but when 0010 goes to probe, the nozzle almost misses the front right washer all together. It hits just fine on the back right washer.
@marcio any thoughts?
It sounds like @paulette has been having wipe issues on other machines. I know there is at least one more red tagged machine for missing the wiper pad.
During the wipe sequence for the calibration cube, the printer wipes in the center of the pad. Do we have different wipe locations for those two tests?
Wed, Feb 27
Step 22, customers may need to to loosed the tube clamp screw on both the green and black idler levers.
@logan the tubes rest on the top of the foam. In the future customers will likely need to remove filament from the hot end.
Dont know if we want to mention it but on step 18, on the main screen if you just push the temp read out that is in purple, that will take you right to the temp settings. Just a bit of a shortcut.
on step 13 I found it was easier to plug the wires in before securing the chain to the y-axis.
Tue, Feb 26
Mon, Feb 25
I think filsment sensors, either the whole assembly or the wheels or board. Based on the few issues we have had in production this could be one. Also the wire guides on the tool head seem to break pretty easy.
Feb 19 2019
I just had the same issue on the machine I am working on. We couldnt confirm this sooner since we did not try and print on the first few betas we did.
Feb 18 2019
@DaniAO I have had random instances of this. Might happen once or twice on a machine then it will go away.
Jan 23 2019
@west the 20mm you added should be enough.
Jan 22 2019
@west I think just adding a few mm to the length would work.
@west I believe it is for the y-chain pivot.
Jan 21 2019
@west after I got the new cable with the diode and the new printed part, at least on quiver 6 when you tighten the SST screw down all the way, the wires is loose. The wires can freely spin around the screw so they are not making a good full connection. I used the same hardware as before.
@west, I had done a pull from the branch these cable drawing were updated in before we gave the drawings to production to build.
@west one more thing to note, when @EricNugent and myself would change between the E1 and E2, we both noticed the blower shroud being flexed. This may also be because the heater wires are a little too short as well. This was also observed by Dani.
I know that at least quiver 6, 7, and 11 have the new x-bump stop.
@west I have bben able to install them. The E1 motor seems a tad too short, and so does the heat sink fan harness for both E1 and E2. Motor for E2 looks good and so do both grounds. The blower fan wires seem pretty long, not sure if they were meant to be so long but they have a good amount of slack in the channel.
@DaniAO I think it it still a tad tight to get on but overall it seems better.
Jan 18 2019
@DaniAO I cant say for sure, I havent had the printer running much lately to test this out. But I think my problem was different than the original issue this ticket was made for.
No they did not.
@west it has been working well for me now that I don't do the level axis and just home it.
Jan 17 2019
180 degrees from where?
We did a second drop test and here are the results.
Ah ok gotcha. So just home the printer to get it level. check. Thanks for the info.
@west So should we just get rid of the x-level function altogether?
I have this installed on my machine and it has been working, however would it be possible , that once both end stops are triggered it ends the x-level sequence? Currently it does the same thing where it goes up and triggers both stops but then bounces a few more times. When it does that the x-axis can get out of sync and may not be truly level. I also think it is un-necessary for it to keep leveling once both end stops have been triggered.
Jan 16 2019
If I could get a few of each of these parts I could get a weight for them. All the other parts have already been put onto machines.
@tutley I have not printed with any flexy recently. I may have had an issue with my tensions with the flexy. Once I get my printer put back together I will try it again.
Jan 15 2019
@tutley do we need to update just the ones that were changed today?
@tutley did the heatsink fan (AS-CB0094) need to be updated as well?
Jan 14 2019
I was still having some issues on Friday after I switched back to .54. I will try .70 and see if My issues go away.
Jan 11 2019
Quiver 6 was also doing something very similar however I was using .67 firmware.
This will also benefit production as well. It will be clear to see a difference in the parts, and will help putting it together in the right spots.
I was able to get this part installed today and fit much better.
@Steven I first had the runout set to 14mm then I increased it to 34mm. Both ended up running out.
HEre is the gcode I was using. Nozzle one was ninjaflex and nozzle 2 was polyflex.
@DaniAO I have not seen this issue since I switched back to using nGen. I was having too much trouble with the flexy that I had to change. I don't know if there is anyone else who has tried printing with flexy material other than josh to see if they have the same problem. It looked like the flexy filament was getting jammed somehow and would stop extruding after a few layers.