@karrad No objections on our part

@karrad
I have not once gotten a complaint about the TAZ 5 fan

@west
I am not sure due to the other guys being the one for testing. I told them to do anything they could to make it work, and they will be in at 1:30.
If you are here before then, we can do that testing for it

@karrad
Compatible is difficult word because technically it is compatible. The filament is smaller than what we use and can technically be ran through it.
I would say that it is "compatible but not recommended", and settings (like disabling the run out sensor) may have to be tweaked.

I've had @Darian and @zachah test the 1.75 during the night shift and they have not been getting good results.

@karrad
I think the customer would prefer to always purge an extra 20mm than have the change the next print be messed up. There are a lot of users that just hit print and leave as well, so this causing adhesion issues on the second layer can cause the globs we sometimes see.

There is nothing we really need to see other than the information already on our website. I can ask around but we never really thought it could use anything more.

I'm not so sure about the Mini, as the retail price is already $95, so for $20 dollars someone might just decide to buy a new one (which is what we want anyway).

@karrad I will email the customer and see if they ever got the issue solved

@DaniAO I agree, I like this solution. My only concern would be if they constrict it enough to cause eventual feeding issues, especially over long prints. If the OD and ID of the tube is big enough though, I don't foresee it being an issue. Something to keep an eye on maybe.

IIRC, it was during the very first part, right when you hit start and before the auto-leveling.

I was the one that found the issue, so I can take over on that side of things.

Ive never had to use glue on ABS either, so I wouldn't recommend it personally

Okay I can try getting something like that together later today

Credit: Dave Robertson

The very last picture seems a bit unprofessional to me. There is a lot of gunk in the middle, which shouldn't happen. The image is also unfocused for the majority of it, and only focused on a bit of the skirt.

;{material_print_temperature}{material_bed_temperature}
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
M117 Heating... ; progress indicator message on LCD
M109 R{material_print_temperature_0} ; wait for extruder to reach printing temp
M109 R{material_print_temperature_1} ; wait for extruder to reach printing temp
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed to reach printing temp
G1 Z15.0 F{speed_travel} ;move the platform down 15mm
T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F100 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F200 E-{retraction_amount}
T0 ;Switch to the first extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F100 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{speed_travel}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...

I have tested the recommended gcode changes and it all seems to work. The TAZ5 V2 now heats up to the temperature I manually set instead of staying at 190C. When I change it back, it goes back to not working.

Customer says they are using Cura 2.6.63 to do this. I will get back to them and have them upgrade and try again.

Can't reproduce on the Mini in TSR. Used the firmware listed but on Cura 2.6.58

The customer came back and said that clearing the cache worked for a second but it went back to empty on all computers. He tried again and nothing. He then added a new machine through Cura, and all the profiles populated.

I am unable to replicate this issue using Marlin_Mini_SingleExtruder_1.1.5.44_198b138.hex

I have messaged the customer again and will update if we hear anything back

@glatti The files are at :
Highlighted path:
/home/aleph/shared-j/Documents/Creative/Photo/Documentation_Photos/Ohai-kit_source_photos/Dual_V3/FilamentInstallGif/filament_path_Highlighted.png

@DRobertson is working on a few images to highlight and show where the filament actually needs to go. They will be uploaded when finished.

Would those file paths be the same/similar in Windows 10?

I had this happen twice today as well, with the new toolheads.

To be clear, I did clean out the hobbed bolt before when it failed, as part of the standard troubleshooting. If it did it again, I would think its because of grinding, perhaps either from the filament or temperature.

Had a few prints fail, in different places, different models and different printers. It just starts printing air, might want to look into temperatures. I did cold pulls, all the other standard stuff, but it still fails occasionally.

Overnight the models were looking good, had some trouble with the crate on the high detail but will look into when I come back. Just failing at random spots. I will update when I have more info.

If you don't vigorously clean the hotend after every print, you get a lot of Clean Nozzles error. On one printer, it failed 3 times in a row. I thinking maybe a higher wiping temp would be good.

Apologizes, that was me logged in as Matt

I mean the target temperature. See the bed target to the right. When you set a temp it shows there where it's headed, there's no hot end target when you manually set a temperature.

Linen has failed auto leveling a couple of times on the TAZ6. There has also been increased buildup on the wiper pad of the filament. We believe that combined with the probing temperature being too hot causes the leveling to fail.

I'm looking at the standard profile and for the most part the prints look really good. The bottom layer on a couple of the prints are a little stringy but over all I would say they look good.