I don't think its a huge deal if its removed, most customer can't find it now anyway.

I believe she is saying that having one part number for thermistors across two different styles do not make sense.
We should have 1 part number for V2C connector, and 1 part number for universal mount system.
As it stands now, we do not sell the correct style for the universals, as far as I understand it.

Mac OSX 10.7 to Mac OSX XX.x
OSX xx.xx and higher are not compatible with LCE

As far as I know, we were told to not use lube on any machine, even legacy ones.
@karrad any thoughts?

@Orias
Thank you!

Are you logged in? If so, try it in incognito.

@Orias
ping

@DaniAO
Would the best way to move forward is to send out the whole harness?

I think it would be a good idea to have these on the store, next to our other heaters

No rush, I can just see that out of warranty customers will want to be able to purchase these

I'm going to chime in and say we do want a retail kit and page set up for the hotends being used in the Pro

from the original ticket: "When printing printing files that are on SD card, the printer works fine. When saving a known good file to gcode from Cura to SD card, the LCD screen locks up."

@logan
From the ticket "I talked with Austin yesterday and did resolve the issue and it was a bad SD card issue why things did not print. I put a different SD card in and it worked fine. "

@adam
Yes there have been. I will have the ones dealing with it comment

I'm not sure why this was made, its easy enough to find console in my mind. I have not had any customers complain about this.

@karrad
Will do

@karrad
Have not seen them for 6

@DaniAO Okay, so as far as TSR is concerned when we make SOs, KT part numbers are okay?

@lisa @cmerot @kforrest
I have been told by Kyle and Megan that we should be using AS part numbers. We have also always used KT part numbers before.
I am looping everyone in to get a final answer.

@logan
I have already set up an RMA to send him the new one-piece as well.

@kent @Steven @sherylb
I am in the process of sending a new RAMBo to the customer above. Would you like to get the old one back for testing?

This is the customer from ticket ID 81753, mentioned above

I have another customer (ticket ID 81753) with a failed RAMBo after a week of installing.

@adam
We have not had to since the TAZ service bulletin about the frames.

I can't find anything about customers needing to remove this in the last year or so (from RMAs at least), and I know personally that z-axis motor issues are extremely rare.
Whatever works for production works for me, I have no special feelings one way or the other

@DaniAO
I have seen Cory update firmware, not care about it and it went back to normal when it finished. I'll have to do more testing for final confirmation.

I don't think this would cause confusion, maybe the odd question but I doubt it. As long as the screen goes back to normal as soon as the update is done, it should be fine.

@DaniAO
He was able to use it on the MacOS but never got it figured out for windows

@logan
We have VERY rarely see connector fall off during shipping, but not one in particular. This has maybe happened 3-4 times, so once a year. Not something I would consider major.

@DaniAO
Anything that does not say old profile is using the newer one. I know these have been.

So far they have not been used for troubleshooting, so I would say no

OLD PROFILE

@alexei
After it stopped working
His exact words: "Wanted to point out also that until the day I opened this ticket I had been using CURA 3.6.8 to run prints via USB to the Pro.

Does not spin. OLD PROFILE

@oliver
These have been installed and are currently being tested

Customer says "My IT support spent almost four hours working on it. Problem, the firewall on the specific computer wasn't turned off. "

@karrad We do

@DaniAO
We will need the whole replacement part, as this is a warranty issue

gcode on mine looks good as well

from ticket: " Cura, Flow is set to 100 and Initial Layer Flow Rate to 110. I am saving to sdcard for printing. When layer 2 starts printing, I go into the tune menu on the machine (Taz 6 dual extruder v3) and Flow is still set to 110 instead of being at 100. Should it be matching the Cura values?"

@karrad
I did not know it was under intermediate, I thought I remembered it was under supported. Can't speak to whether its ready or not

approved

@karrad
Customer says "I was not able to get this figured out. I rolled back to an older edition of cura and still the same result. This printer is not working at all for us."

I do not have a preference

@jebba We do not usually check the windows version as it doesn't seem to make a difference.
I don't have a windows machine I can test on but I just installed Cura personally on Friday and know about the checkbox. I think people just accidentally unclick it.

@karrad
Maybe about once a week, it isn't super common but it isn't exactly rare

It is fairly old but we find it still works for users. I'm not sure exactly how drivers work but it does the job.

@jebba
We have seen this before. The button to automatically download the drivers can sometimes be unclicked so no drivers are downloaded.
We do have a guide on installing them here: https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/windows-drivers/maintenance-repairs/

@karrad No objections on our part

@karrad
I have not once gotten a complaint about the TAZ 5 fan

@west
I am not sure due to the other guys being the one for testing. I told them to do anything they could to make it work, and they will be in at 1:30.
If you are here before then, we can do that testing for it

@karrad
Compatible is difficult word because technically it is compatible. The filament is smaller than what we use and can technically be ran through it.
I would say that it is "compatible but not recommended", and settings (like disabling the run out sensor) may have to be tweaked.

I've had @Darian and @zachah test the 1.75 during the night shift and they have not been getting good results.

@karrad
I think the customer would prefer to always purge an extra 20mm than have the change the next print be messed up. There are a lot of users that just hit print and leave as well, so this causing adhesion issues on the second layer can cause the globs we sometimes see.

I'm not so sure about the Mini, as the retail price is already $95, so for $20 dollars someone might just decide to buy a new one (which is what we want anyway).

@karrad I will email the customer and see if they ever got the issue solved

@DaniAO I agree, I like this solution. My only concern would be if they constrict it enough to cause eventual feeding issues, especially over long prints. If the OD and ID of the tube is big enough though, I don't foresee it being an issue. Something to keep an eye on maybe.

IIRC, it was during the very first part, right when you hit start and before the auto-leveling.

I was the one that found the issue, so I can take over on that side of things.

Ive never had to use glue on ABS either, so I wouldn't recommend it personally

Okay I can try getting something like that together later today

Credit: Dave Robertson

The very last picture seems a bit unprofessional to me. There is a lot of gunk in the middle, which shouldn't happen. The image is also unfocused for the majority of it, and only focused on a bit of the skirt.

;{material_print_temperature}{material_bed_temperature}
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
M117 Heating... ; progress indicator message on LCD
M109 R{material_print_temperature_0} ; wait for extruder to reach printing temp
M109 R{material_print_temperature_1} ; wait for extruder to reach printing temp
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed to reach printing temp
G1 Z15.0 F{speed_travel} ;move the platform down 15mm
T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F100 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F200 E-{retraction_amount}
T0 ;Switch to the first extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F100 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{speed_travel}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...

I have tested the recommended gcode changes and it all seems to work. The TAZ5 V2 now heats up to the temperature I manually set instead of staying at 190C. When I change it back, it goes back to not working.

Customer says they are using Cura 2.6.63 to do this. I will get back to them and have them upgrade and try again.

Can't reproduce on the Mini in TSR. Used the firmware listed but on Cura 2.6.58

The customer came back and said that clearing the cache worked for a second but it went back to empty on all computers. He tried again and nothing. He then added a new machine through Cura, and all the profiles populated.

I am unable to replicate this issue using Marlin_Mini_SingleExtruder_1.1.5.44_198b138.hex

I have messaged the customer again and will update if we hear anything back

@glatti The files are at :
Highlighted path:
/home/aleph/shared-j/Documents/Creative/Photo/Documentation_Photos/Ohai-kit_source_photos/Dual_V3/FilamentInstallGif/filament_path_Highlighted.png

@DRobertson is working on a few images to highlight and show where the filament actually needs to go. They will be uploaded when finished.

Would those file paths be the same/similar in Windows 10?

I had this happen twice today as well, with the new toolheads.

To be clear, I did clean out the hobbed bolt before when it failed, as part of the standard troubleshooting. If it did it again, I would think its because of grinding, perhaps either from the filament or temperature.

Had a few prints fail, in different places, different models and different printers. It just starts printing air, might want to look into temperatures. I did cold pulls, all the other standard stuff, but it still fails occasionally.

Overnight the models were looking good, had some trouble with the crate on the high detail but will look into when I come back. Just failing at random spots. I will update when I have more info.

If you don't vigorously clean the hotend after every print, you get a lot of Clean Nozzles error. On one printer, it failed 3 times in a row. I thinking maybe a higher wiping temp would be good.

Apologizes, that was me logged in as Matt

I mean the target temperature. See the bed target to the right. When you set a temp it shows there where it's headed, there's no hot end target when you manually set a temperature.

Linen has failed auto leveling a couple of times on the TAZ6. There has also been increased buildup on the wiper pad of the filament. We believe that combined with the probing temperature being too hot causes the leveling to fail.

I'm looking at the standard profile and for the most part the prints look really good. The bottom layer on a couple of the prints are a little stringy but over all I would say they look good.