- User Since
- Feb 4 2017, 5:27 PM (124 w, 2 d)
Dually noted, we could add a cheap wrench to the tool kit. Hopefully they shouldn't need to loosen the fasteners that ensure their frame is square.
We have recurring issues on the production floor regarding stripping these fasteners as well as the damage caused by the driver against the motor.
We're going to try out some hex head fasteners with a ratchet end combination wrench to tighten them.
I have requested these:
The flanges will make the washers unnecessary.
I have ordered one of these wrenches to try these out with:
@adam I have 2 printed mounts on my desk, need inserts in them but that can be done quick.
Also, the above comment has been taken care of, they should have everything needed for the reworks.
@tutley Lets not have a public discussion about internal policies, feel free to message me directly if you want to discuss this further, or consult your supervisor.
@tutley printing 2 more parts per machine IS a manufacturability issue given our current and planned capacities. This isn't meant to say it's a bad idea, but a poor one from a manufacturing standpoint which is my concern.
Aside from vehicles, when you open a piece of equipment where will you find small spare parts and service records? In an adhesive vinyl sleeve.
I understand their request.
That's part of what the label is for, the top of it would seal the sleeve.
Also it'd be much clearer that there are fuses inside.
This size would probably work better for the space we need if just including the nano fuses:
This is excessive, do we really need to make an additional printed part for this?
@david.hall @Shawn If you haven't already, please reinstall these fasteners using Loctite 425 on both and torque them to 5in*lbs. Allow some time to cure, Loctite says "fixturing is achieved in less than 2 minutes and full strength within 24 hours" so I would advise a minimum of one hour before returning these to service. Let me know if you have any questions
Tue, Jun 18
Doing my best to combine with Quiver harnesses as much as possible, this is what the assembly looks like as of right now:
I have ordered parts coming from digikey
Ah I see what you did there now. Sweet!
@EricNugent v1.3 looks good to move forward
Oh easily, the 2 inserts combined is less than 10 cents.
Full conversation in T7984, but to summarize:
The proposed solution is to:
- Lengthen ground wire
- Use redgum Y Motor Mount (same PP-IS part and leave un-used inserts, NBD)
- zip tie ground through strain relief on Y-Motor Mount
@west I see the additional chamfer to address the image above and the reduced thickness, but it looks like the chamfer that was made for the belt clamp on the other side got removed. I think we should keep that, it did help a lot.
I agree. @DaniAO is there a Quiver ticket regarding this issue yet?
@west for using the same part and leaving inserts in, or for making a separate PP-IS without the 2x PP-MP0066?
Another possible way around that would be to mount a Mini 2 style bump stop to it and use that at the rear vs the bump stop rings. Just a thought
I don't think the inserts being installed is much of an issue, would it be bad if they were installed but not utilized? Then the same PP-IS part could be used for both. The inserts are listed at just shy of 5 cents a piece in OCA.
I know this ticket is about Redgum, but what if we used the Redgum Y Motor Mount on Quiver and just leave off the switch so that we can utilize the strain relief? This would also eliminate a unique part between the two printers.
True! That sounds like the easiest solution for Redgum, but better terminal rings could solve the issue for Quiver also.
EL-MS0141 is for a #4 stud, not metric. Looking for #4 stud rings on Tape & Reel for 24 AWG I found these:
Here is one in bulk packaging:
To me the issue isn't as much length as it is a lack of strain relief in the fact that the terminal ring crimps do not grip the insulation of the wire. In my understanding, that is where the break occurs. Between being attached and being plugged in/removed seems to be enough bending to break the conductors at that location.
Another issue with the EL-MS0141 rings we're using is that we don't have tooling to crimp these properly (B shape) and instead these are hand crimped very flat using the middle (not intended for crimping) portion of the blue handled crimp tools.
measured with calipers at layer 1
Image top: 6.7mm
Image bottom left: 5.5mm
Image bottom right: 5.6mm
Model changes solved issues initially reported in T7678, however a few more possible improvements were noted on T7678 and should be pursued.
Passing this task to @EricNugent to keep things going while I am out the next 2 days.
Fit test didn't go so well, waiting for new models to slice up. See T7669 for further details.
This made installing the belt clamp much easier, and no signs of stress marks near the lower fastener.
@west I believe so, before threading any fasteners I could kinda rock it around on that alignment feature, didn't want to sit flat.
So, it is better maybe, because I was eventually able to get the tool head to mount but still not perfect.
I installed the X-Carriage following the OHAI, first adjusting bearing compression and then tightening the screws that attach the X-Carriage to the X Double Bearing by sliding to the ends of travel when tightening the corresponding fastener (slide left - tighten left, slide right - tighten right).
I then attempted to mount the tool head and could not align with the rear insert so I loosened the X-Carriage cover some more and attempted some more, no luck.
@west So I grabbed the redgum tool head with the most squished mount we have over here and it doesn't want to sit flat, seems like it is still high-centered on the alignment feature.
I am still proceeding with the fit test with one of the good ones so that the models can be verified today.
Looking at these a bit closer, I had 2 on the bed at once and 1 looks great while the other has an ugly Z-seam on the bottom front edge and it is very weak there.
Passing to @EricNugent to work his magic while I am out the next 2 days.
That sounds like a good idea. We should perform another drop test with a zip-tie in place for this. There are some other changes to printed parts that should be dropped at the same time.
Mon, Jun 17
Possibly related, just looked at one with @paulette that had a bright spot in one location on the screen if you were to touch anywhere, including the sheet metal just below the LCD. This was with the LCD assembly loose in the case.
After taking it out we found that one of the LCD board mounting fasteners had pushed some plastic out that was pushing against the back of the touch screen. This was insert bloom pushed out by the fastener.
We removed that bit of plastic and reinstalled and the problem went away.
Slice looks good cosmetically, waiting for a good print from T7684 so I can fit test the 3 parts at once.
Slice looks good cosmetically, need to wait for T7684 before I can do a fit test
My test slice of these parts was a fail. Lots of stringing inside the bearing bore, and a very ugly wall where it is too thin to print with default line widths.
Passing to @EricNugent so he can work his magic
OHAI is here: https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/control-box-testing-taz-workhorse-edition/taz-workhorse-edition/
The OHAI will need screen shots of CuraLE whenever we manage to get a build with the final product name T7969
Fri, Jun 14
@jebba My apologies, I have corrected the task title.
@jebba test fixture; Control Box Assembly Test Stand
I saw those printers that @robert and @paulette had. The one that Robert had it was prominent and visible on all screens and reminded me of when a fluorescent light bulb is starting to go bad and begins to flicker/pulse. The unit that Paulette had was less prominent, and only visible on darker screens. This was all outside of flashing FW.
The better alternative would be installing reset-able circuit breakers like the other test stands have.
For the time being, @MikeR is on his way with more 5A fuses to leave for them.
@MichaelM if this becomes a more frequent issue let me know and we'll get a ticket going for that rework.
Being that it cant be recreated elsewhere I don't feel it is a Marlin issue so this ticket can remain invalid.
I am satisfied with the lowered distance and feed rate, it actually makes it easier to tell which way the motor is turning during the test. I cant find anything wrong with the assembly otherwise that may cause this, especially with everything grounded back to the chassis.
Thanks for looking into this though.
Interesting... Well I am out of ideas lol
I don't currently have an assembled redgum.
Did it actually perform the extrusion move? Was the printer running redgum dualv3 FW? On a normal redgum you would have to pre-heat both extruders or it will skip those portions of the gcode due to cold extrusion prevention and complete the rest without an error. The test stand has resistors so it thinks it is always above min extrusion temp.
@marcio I grounded all of the motors on the test stand to the chassis and the original gcode still has the same behavior. So it doesn't appear that grounding was the issue.
EL-HR0174 - Bed Power Harness
EL-HR0178 - Extruder Harness
EL-HR0179 - X Harness
EL-HR0180 - Y Bed Harness
EL-HR0181 - Y/Z End Harness
EL-HR0173 - CB X Harness
EL-HR0175 - CB Extruder Harness
EL-HR0176 - CB Dual Extruder Harness
EL-HR0177 - CB Y Endstop Harness
EL-HR0183 - CB Y/Z Harness
EL-HR0184 - CB Bed Harness
EL-HR0185 - CB Z Endstop Harness
Per my discussion with @cmerot this will be expanding to include internal harnesses for the event that they are built in house as well as any externals that are not built by Igus.
Harnesses to be included on this stand:
EL-HR0147 - LCD/USB Harness
EL-HR0148 - CB Bed Power Harness
EL-HR0149 - CB Y/Z Harness
EL-HR0150 - CB Z Endstop Harness
EL-HR0151 - CB X Harness
EL-HR0153 - CB Extruder Sensor Harness
EL-HR0155 - CB Bed Harness
EL-HR0156 - Erase Switch Harness
EL-HR0142 - Z Max External
EL-HR0143 - Y/Z Harness
EL-HR0144 - Filament Sensor Harness
EL-HR0145 - E1 Extension Harness
EL-HR0146 - Bed Extension Harness
Thu, Jun 13
5 amp fuse was blown.
Need to get spares to @MichaelM for future replacements in order to call this resolved
This appears functional as of 18.104.22.168
I am unable to close this ticket because the edit policy is a project I am not a member of.
OMW to check this out
Didn't see this exact scenario on the rest of the betas, closing out for now
This has been incorporated into redgum OHAI, step 26 here: https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/control-box-assembly-workhorse/taz-workhorse-edition/
Removing redgum project from the ticket since this is complete there, will leave on Quiver board until CO is complete.
To incorporate this change to Quiver instructions requires a COR
@adam Do you have a moment to get that COR submitted?
For breakage I am only aware of this occurrence
@adam So am I good to go ahead and incorporate this change?
So is this still two of them like for quiver? or one? What location on the cover exactly?
Looks like the distance or the feed rate were the issue, I reduced both to:
G0 E10 F100
gcode now completes without issues
Now on hold for T7853
This appears to be functioning as intended now. Thanks @marcio
Been the same since TAZ 6, and loose screws is on that QA record twice so it shouldn't be too much of an issue.
@adam I added torque specs to both of those fasteners, but the outer bearing holder fasteners cant be reached with a torque driver, FWIW
Wed, Jun 12
Here are the photos of that connector after the drop test from T6798: