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- User Since
- Mar 19 2018, 2:20 PM (43 w, 3 d)
Tue, Jan 15
I ran the calibration test 20 times in a row and recorded my results.
I'd also like to add that Jeff and I have gotten very different results from running the calibration test multiple times. While the x and y offsets are fairly consistent, the z offset has a much bigger range. One calibration put the z offset at 0.24 and produced some poor prints, while another calibration put it at -0.01 and produced far better prints. Running the calibration multiple times in row, making sure the nozzles are clean each time, produces a wide range of z offset measurements.
Mon, Jan 14
This occurs when plugged in via usb cable:
Reopening because issue is still present when printing via usb cable with Cura.
Fri, Jan 11
I talked about it in T5135, and was solved for me with firmware version .67.
Tried the steps to reproduce and my machine, Quiver 1, retained the backlash values after power cycling. I'm running .67
Wed, Jan 9
This seems to have been resolved with the current firmware update 188.8.131.52. I'll measure it more, but in my last print both extruders purged about 170mm.
Mon, Jan 7
I added the start and end gcode and still have the same issue. I timed the nozzle 1 purge to be about 12 seconds and the nozzle 2 purge to be about 6 seconds. While both nozzles did purge some filament, I'm still not sure why nozzle 2 always seems to purge for half the time/amount that nozzle 1 does.
Fri, Jan 4
Firmware version Marlin 184.108.40.206. Using Cura version 3.6.2 and 3.6.1.
This seems to be fixed in the current builds.
Fri, Dec 21
@west Adding that line made no difference, unfortunately. After it cools the bed to 45C, all the temps are set to 0 and the LCD says it's ready.
Thu, Dec 20
Here's the last few lines of it:
Wed, Dec 19
Mine (quiver 1) is doing this too, at the start of a print.
How about letting the user set the increments in the interface settings?
I would just like to be able to set the z-offset for the extruder 2 when not printing. I don't like the idea of being able to change that only in mid-print.
Dec 14 2018
I tried adding the T0 or T1 and then setting them, but the LCD only displays the setting I put in for T0:
Dec 5 2018
@MikeR and I weren't torquing the set screws when assembling. If a smaller torque driver is going to be used in production then there should be no issue, we only had a slight issue using our drivers, as they would get a little stuck after going all the way in.
Nov 30 2018
We measure them to be 3mm in diameter
Nov 29 2018
Nov 19 2018
Enclosed, glue stick onto the PEI, Aero v2.
The recent prints I did were on a Mini 1 Aerostruder; should be the latest firmware as I flashed it last week. In the past I've has the warping issue with Taz 6 Aero and Taz 6 Moarstruder as well.
My latest printing I turned off the cooling fan and increased the bed temp to 110C; so far haven't had any warping in any of my prints.
Nov 13 2018
Nov 5 2018
Let me know if any adjustments need to be made.
Oct 24 2018
Okay, I see what you added. I didn't think those holes were necessary as I didn't know how far the screws/inserts were.
Oct 23 2018
I reproduced the model within freecad and used the measurements from there to reproduce the essential measurements. Maybe I didn't add the correct chamfer?
Oct 17 2018
Oct 15 2018
What about the Macro and Moar tags? Shouldn't it be:
Oct 11 2018
Oct 10 2018
Oct 5 2018
I see they're updated, but can we add the toolhead size next to them? 0.8mm, 1.2mm, etc
Oct 3 2018
Oct 2 2018
Sep 20 2018
I had recently contacted Taulman about using an oven for drying filament, and was told that you can dry the filament at 49C (120F) in an oven for a few hours.
Sep 17 2018
Officially it should be 250-255, so should have no issue.
Jun 11 2018
You're welcome. One more suggestion: the mini 1 didn't come with an LCD screen, while the mini 2 does. When I got the mini 2, I went through and followed all the instructions as closely as I could, when I noticed there's no documentation, at least in the instruction manual, on how to use the LCD. The instructions will direct you to connect it to a computer and make your first print. I would think that it would require something on the menus, options, and preferences using the LCD and SD card.
Same for the fly fishing reel. There are many different versions of the same parts, there are 8 different parts, and no documentation on how to put it together or which version of each part to print.
I'm trying to approach the mini 2 as a new customer, so I've just been printing out the sample prints included with the printer. Where in the documentation does it say that you need a bearing? Thanks.