- User Since
- Aug 31 2016, 12:51 PM (163 w, 6 d)
Fri, Oct 11
can you try .173 or later?
Wed, Oct 9
the current design is using an extended tip setscrew to allow proper adjustment to mate with the magnet
the magnets @west sourced will work well
we are using a 9mm GT2 belt
we have a 3 point leveling system incorporated into the bottom plate
the current design is using dowel pins to locate the linear rails
all the milled part drawings should have part numbers now
@sarahv thank you!!
@karrad this version has plenty of clearance all the way around
@sarahv bottom plate is a sheet metal part not a machined part. can we get an updated part number with the correct prefix? PP-FP instead of PP-MP
Also window cover top is not a machined part, it is a formed plastic part so i don't know if it needs a different prefix than PP-MP, and can we update the name for "endstop bump" to "xy endstop bump"
@karrad I have pushed v1.2 to the branch. This version adds 2mm of clearance to the right side. Printing one now, I will update with photos in ~1 hr
Tue, Oct 8
@karrad yep i will update that tomorrow morning! thanks for testing it out for me
it looks like we could add about 3mm to the max extrusion distance but it works
@karrad on .170 this works great!
@karrad the cable cover is what is making contact with the frame. it would be an easy modification to the printed part to ensure this doesnt happen
@DaniAO the 81620 collar should be fine as is
i have ordered some belleville washers to decouple the baseplate frrom the motion system
I have ordered some belleville washers for the adjustment of the z axis as well as an M6 x 8mm unthreaded spacer from mcmaster, and some angle brackets and tnuts from TSLOTS
Mon, Oct 7
i have pushed these to kangaroopaw branch T10293
I sliced these with the standard ABS print profile and they worked great!
this was merged to master
the real root of this problem is the injection molded filament guide piece in the aero (which makes printing flexibles possible with this design). Due to the taper of the injection molded part (necessary for injection molding) the inlet of the guide is a smaller ID than the ID of the heat break and nozzle. when the filament cools in the heat break/nozzle it matches that diameter. now when you go to remove the filament, it is too large to pull through the injection molded filament guide, so a reheat and ram purge is necessary in order to remove the filament through the smaller ID of the filament guide without jamming
i cut a strip of high temp plumbers felt and soaked it in ABS slurry. the stuff i have is pretty thin and needed folded over to work. I would suggest we find something that is the correct thickness for the wiper mount
Fri, Oct 4
i have added angular adjustability in both the x and y axes for the z rail mount extrusion. i have updated the assembly and pushed these files, we will need to look at adding a spacer to get this to work properly
updated assem with filament rollers in base with 4x 3kg reels and z adjustment cross bar
i think we should look at another window/door for the base to close off the filament section, we could then potentially add a desiccant storage area to keep the filament you are printing with dry
printing one of these now, we will install and send photos to Intertek
@logan yea it will be
Thu, Oct 3
Wed, Oct 2
Tue, Oct 1
With a 200mm x 300mm x 250mm build volume, that is 15000 cm^3
With ABS being up to ~1.5g/cm^3 that means a full build volume block is 22500 grams or 22.5 kg
Mon, Sep 30
based on my testing, both the 2mm and 3mm thick magnets combined with the 0.5mm thick flex plates that were sampled performed really well.
The PEX surface did seem to get damaged from the nozzle coming into contact with the film when i had a bad probe. The PEI seems to be more resilient to this, so we may want to put PEI on their flex plate for production. I am supposed to be receiving a PEX Plus sample at some point.
i can get a drawing together for an Akita whambam system with custom laser engraving on the plate if i can get an svg of the desired artwork
Fri, Sep 27
@kent that actually doesnt look bad!
i think we need to confirm with marketing, product planning, etc that we would want to change it to blue before we adjust the drawing
@eBeardslee @DaniAO @adam @karrad do we want the warning label on the bed to be blue or do we keep it in silver
sounds good man!
that will help ensure they dont mix them up either. black screws on bottom stainless on top
sounds good to me!
i think the change to the drawing for the bed plate was just to make the powder coat white, and the silk screened warnings were overlooked as needing to be blue to match. i imagine the silver will be hard to see against the white powder coat
it should probably be blue
@logan i think we should switch to m3x10 fhcs instead of the 3x12fhcs that is being used. the prototypes were all built with shorter screws on the bottom ( i cut m3x12fhcs shorter with the dremel). I thought we were using shorter ones on the bottom in production, but i just checked the ohai and its 4x m3x12 for the bottom and top plates mounted to the back plate. . The countersink is important as it helps get the bottom plate aligned properly and keeps the rods parallel to the z axis.
Thu, Sep 26
We would also like to add a button to home the syringe carriage
i pushed the files for the gauges to master and will be handing off the physical gauges to @logan today when he gets here for bio training
this was corrected with some of the new firmware
@bigmansas the issue is not heat creep related. If that were the case we would be seeing jammed tool heads. the issue is related to retraction, print temp and print speed, as well as material variances across different PLA colors
yea, this was corrected a while ago
yea i wouldnt expect it to be even across both sides. Maybe we are getting thicker PEI or adhesive?
Wed, Sep 25
Tue, Sep 24
@kent looks good, merged with master!
@adam thats likely because they were nailing the dimensions post anodization and installing the bushing as well. It is fairly easy to damage the bushings when press fitting them into the part and cause excessive drag. the bushing material is soft and under the force of the arbor press can deform and reduce the ID of the bushings
the anodized finish is just for cosmetic purposes. im fine with removing it