- User Since
- Aug 31 2016, 12:51 PM (80 w, 2 d)
@logan I think this will work just fine!
I agree with @DaniAO, I dont care for the green mount either
@logan already spoke to you about it but just so you dont forget, the insert drawing for then spool arm mount was updated to include the red arrows
@karrad not that i have heard of. My machine had an older build. So I'm updating now and i will run some tests
@logan I just pushed the remaining inserts drawings
Thu, Mar 15
@logan. there was a new reaming top that i used, but i think the slice is what really fixed the issue
@logan i have adjusted the nut pocket (5e9cfb614eef). it is much closer to the depth of the x motor now. the pocket on the side used to be just under .2mm deep, and is now 2.3mm deep. I think this should be enough to prevent the nut from spinning during installation.
@logan i was using a tapered center punch to push the nylock into the pocket. I think it is fine to use a 2mm driver as long as it doesnt damage the nylon in the nut. Also yes i can adjust the x idler to give a little more material around the pocket.
Wed, Mar 14
@logan we can adjust the x ends to have a bit more material to capture the nylock. Also if need be that could always be a rolled in change. I dont like adding more material to this part as it is already a long print, but i think we can get this sorted out tomorrow
the slice request for the shrouds without numbering is T2095
Tue, Mar 13
Fri, Mar 9
@benmalouf that is a very interesting take on it, and it makes a lot of sense to me. Black would definitely absorb more heat and lighter colors would be more likely to reflect heat, particularly white. I think having real data on the strength of different colored parts would be very important info for us to have
@benmalouf I know that lulzbot green and natural (white) ABS are much weaker than the black. Must be something to do with the dyes/colorants in the lighter colored filaments. @anolen may have some data to support this. I believe we could get an extruder mount that works in lulzbot green but i imagine it would have to be sliced with more infill/shells etc. so more plastic used. It may take multiple drop tests to get a part that meets our demands, but i think we can pull it off for sure. @kenhara i agree that implementing this as an ECO is not ideal.
@karrad no problem! yea i can do that for sure
@karrad The final z move after a print is complete is still dropping the toolhead to a z height that could crash into a print. The end g code in the hibiscus repo is correct (G1 X5 Y5 Z183 E0 F10000) but when i set up hibiscus in 3.2.9 it has G1 X5 Y5 Z158 E0 F10000.
@Steven I discussed with @mjpelletier and the flammability rating is marked on the EINSY board. Its 94V-0. I put that in a document and put in the directory. As far as the electrical rating of the product, we weren't quite sure what they are asking for on this part.
@Steven I put the UL/CSA reference info for the TEMPCO heat spreaders into a document and added it to the directory
@kent have you had a chance to try the new reaming fixture and see if this corrected the issue?
@Dani as far as i know we have seen some from the vendor and rolled them right into production. Bob and Tom went through the ones we got to confirm the solder was present.
@kent is this still an issue? when i spoke to you about and looked at the parts we were thinking it was because the bushing wasnt seated properly. If this is no longer an issue can you please close this ticket?
@Steven sure thing i will send an email to William right now!
Wed, Mar 7
@logan as long as we arent introducing play in the axis im happy with it. sounds like the conical tip of the reamer should prevent this
Tue, Mar 6
Mon, Mar 5
We have decided to do 0.8mm for banded tiger and 1.2mm for dingy cutworm
@adam thats a good question. I dont think it would hurt
@adam I would say its worth it
Fri, Mar 2
I have seen no real functional difference between the volcano block and somestruder block in this application. I think it would be wise to use the volcano block for these toolheads since it is an off the shelf item from e3d.
Thu, Mar 1
Wed, Feb 28
After a closer look with @kent. We noticed the reaming fixture for the x end motor isnt allowing the part to fully seat into the fixture. This is causing the bushing bore to be slightly offset which means the spacing between the rods doesnt match the spacing between the bushings. this is causing a very tight fit and binding when the part reaches the bottom of its travel. I will adjust the reaming fixture and get one printing out so we can see if this helps. Also i will machine the base so it is a much flatter surface than the printed base we are currently using. We have confirmed there are no issues with the CAD models, so the issue must be appearing in the mfg process. In this case we really believe it is the way the parts are currently being reamed out.
@kent can you confirm if this has passed first articles inspections?
@kent is the spacing on the z right assembly good? It sounds like we need to get these resliced? I just confirmed that the hole the spacing is correct in the CAD files for both the z upper left and z lower left
@kent can you confirm if these passed the first articles inspections?
Tue, Feb 27
Directly comparing two prints off of two toolheads with different nozzle sizes, the print that comes off the toolhead with a larger nozzle will have less resolution. The larger nozzle will create stronger prints though. I think the 0.8mm nozzle is perfect for a high output toolhead on Mini because it still maintains great print quality for smaller prints but with a much higher output than the standard toolheads. The 1.2 nozzle makes more sense on a TAZ since smaller prints with the 1.2mm nozzle have very poor resolution. Since the toolheads will be universal between hibiscus and quiver, the 1.2mm nozzle can still be used on a Mini if need be. Either way, i think both nozzle sizes are great choices for a high output toolhead.