- User Since
- Aug 31 2016, 12:51 PM (129 w, 3 d)
Wed, Feb 20
@karrad yea i agree. i think using the bed to shear the filament off is the best option
Tue, Feb 19
Wed, Feb 13
@kent we have to have the cables where they are to pass conducted emissions. We had them toward the front of the case before and we failed emissions.
Tue, Feb 12
Mon, Feb 11
lol yea you are correct, *shorter
i dont have a measurement, but your machine has a properly seated, and correct length beta xmin bump stop. if yours is wiping 2 or so mm to the left, then the jig should be made an additional 2mm or so longer. (2mm may be too much)
@logan the only difference between yours and @marcio's machine that i can see now is the xmin bump stop. You have the beta part, and he has the alpha part. We may want to just adjust the beta y spacer jig so that firmware and start gcode wont need adjusted, and that way both alphas and betas will work with the same firmware versions
Fri, Feb 8
@logan well the alphas all have the older style xmin bump stops that are hard to get fully seated. So @anolen had me look at hers since they were all wiping too far to the right. All the xmin bump stops werent quite seated (about 2-3mm off) and i seated them properly and hers are all wiping correctly now.
@logan i inspected the x min bump stop and it was printed with a ton of oversquish. it measures about 39.5 off the rod, and was measuring just under 38mm when installed. I replaced the xmin bumpstop with one that measures 40mm. Also i compared the y axis position to @marcio's machine and yours was slightly to the right, so I shifted your y axis 1mm to the left. After these two changes, the machine has no probem wiping or probing. I will bring the machine back to you now.
@logan is your x min bump stop fully seated and the correct length? should measure 40mm. mine is measuring about 39.5 when installed
Wed, Feb 6
@logan yea those are pretty similar. I think there is something going on in Marlin or with the Archim
@logan you could also try increasing motor current or slowing the print down. It may be losing microsteps
Tue, Feb 5
@marcio any thoughts on this one?
ok, yea this is a strange one. it seems the steps/unit are off at first glance, but you mentioned both the 10 and 20mm prints came in about .5 shy of the target. So i do not think it is steps/unit
@logan does this scale to larger prints? i.e. would a circle 100mm in diameter come in at 95mm or so?
@Steven @matth I received the tool head (it was disassembled when I got it) and reassembled everything. I found no mechanical issues, no binding, etc.
I installed the tool head on my machine running Marlin .81 and ran through a few calibrations making note of the offsets.
Fri, Feb 1
Wed, Jan 30
@karrad even if you restart a print with the filament retracted on one, it is a good prime amount and both nozzles are properly primed when the print restarts
@karrad this one looks good to me! sorry for the delayed response
Tue, Jan 29
i have tracked this down to a faulty USB port on my USB hub. I was getting an intermittent connection i believe.
After changing ports, i was successful in getting past the start g code.
@jperry can i get a couple more part numbers made?
Mon, Jan 28
Made it past the start g-code when printing via USB drive. May be a bad USB cable or connection. I will investigate this further tomorrow.
i turned off accel control and tried again. this time the same error popped up mid wipe.
Fri, Jan 25
@oliver i also have the USB plugged in and i am not seeing this. however my unit has all the upgrades for EMI/ESD. Maybe this is why i am not seeing this
i am not having any issues with calibration on .78
- you do not actually need to remove the blower shroud. you can remove the thermistor if the toolhead is in the up position.
- breakage in the thermistor connector?
- we remove the screws to install ground lugs on all other motors, which is necessary for EMI compliance. Doing this to the toolhead motors as well shouldnt be an issue, and it allows us to clean up the cabling
- the thermistor wires (32 gauge leads) shouldnt be moving when the toolhead actuates if the cable routing is correct. The thermistor wires should be tucked above the heater cartridge wires and then the cable guard holds the molex connector. Any wire movement is on the back side of the motor on the 24 gauge thermisor harness wires.
ok cool. And yeah we should be good to close this one
@DaniAO on my local machine. and my email. I can add it to the location containing all the UL stuff for quiver if youd like
Thu, Jan 24
@kent i modified the titleblock to 2019 in the shared-j titleblock location
Jan 24 2019
I emailed Actuonix for an update on this, they said they should have it for me by the end of the day today
Update from E3D is that this is still in the works. They have run into some complications and progress has been slow.
Jan 21 2019
@karrad nice, thx for the heads up!
@DaniAO i believe this is good to go, but with this change comes removing the x level button in the UI. which i dont think has been touched yet. @marcio can we remove the x level button and replace with the wipe nozzle button?
The mirrored assem heater wires and heatsink fan wires are pinned wrong, which i believe @kent recently changed. Everything else is correct
@jperry can i also get part numbers made for the Tslots hardware:
@mcoronado yes to the lighting, but also i think it will just look better with the tint overall.
@mcoronado agreed. we could do the sides gray and the front clear? or do you think it would be better to do all gray?
Jan 18 2019
@jperry Thank you!
@logan no but we can check that the USB boards boot using a known good LCD assembly on the same fixture
@logan Sure! I think just an archim rigged up with some firmware/thermistors, etc. to run the LCD, and you can just plug the assembly in and boot it up to make sure it powers on and the digitizer and everything functions properly before it gets installed into a chassis
agreed. I am closing this one down. If this crops back up for Beta builds/production we can re open
The most recent version of this part has held up nicely without cracking or breaking upon installation. I think this one is okay to close down.
@west can we close this ticket?
Any updates from Printed Solid?
Jan 17 2019
i dont think that we should fully home the z at start up, i think maybe raise the z axis 10-20mm or so on start up would be a better option
Jan 16 2019
since we cannot adjust the speed of the actuators i am closing this ticket
The latest USB board revision takes care of the instability in the clock, as well as the potential boot up issue due to a slow rise time on the voltage regulator.
@mjpelletier are we okay to close this ticket?
With the latest firmwares, to my knowledge there hasnt been any issue reading a working sensor board. If anything false positives are more of an issue at this point in time, so i am closing this ticket. Also for the test stand, the pin states addition to the firmware ( in fw .73) will be a useful tool for determining the status of the filament sensor.
We are passing EMI/ESD and all alphas had a solid ground connection to the bed plate. I think this is a non issue
@DaniAO i saw this when the USB would cause the firmware to hang/freeze. If the extruders where heating while the firmware freezes or hangs, it seems there is a 50/50 shot that the PID loop gets stuck hammering power to the heaters and causes them to have a thermal runaway. Since Marlin is in a non functional state when this happens, it never notices the thermal runaway and never calls the kill() function.
I am running a flexy/PVA print with the filament sensor turned on (set to 14mm). PVA on extruder 1, Flexy on extruder 2. I have had no issues with the sensors and false positives. @west is printing another dual flexy cone, and i dont believe he has seen any false positives with flexy either.
@anolen i also saw issues with the rewipe. Mainly that it is too deep.
For the clear panels, would you like them to have a slight tint?
https://www.tslots.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Master-Catalog-Web-compressed.pdf see p186 polycarbonate panel. They have clear, gray, bronze. I think the bronze is the dark one and gray is the slightly tinted one. See the bronze panel in acrylic
Jan 15 2019
@west also the zero sense wires were a bit short
@Steven i have not heard anything and just contacted Rory requesting an update on this.
@MikeR im not sure which ones were changed today.
@west these changes look pretty good! this is installed on my machine if you want to take a look. I think both 5v heatsink fans may be a tad too long (5 or so mm) and the zero sense cables may be a bit too short (could add 5mm).
Jan 11 2019
CAD files pushed to /foragelooper
@coloradoprintingproject it will likely ship with the storage cabinet assembled, and the front and back fully assembled. The customer would only be assembling the sides This is designed to use anchor fasteners with drop in tnuts, so assembly should be a breeze.
just playing with the branding on the back panel
@eBeardslee nice! Overall it is ~4.1 feet wide, ~6.2 ft tall, and ~2.5 feet deep. The storage+wheels is 1.5 ft tall. The storage+wheels+bottom enclosure is ~3.8ft tall. So the bottom of the TAZ7 iis 3.8 ft off the ground
Jan 10 2019
this also uses black plastic hinges on the outside as they look better
I am going to start working on getting drawings for all the TSLOTS pieces so we can get it ordered and get a prototype together. Still need to nail down power/lighting/ etc
@logan it would need to be 1.5mm smaller
i dont think .28mm will be noticeable enough to warrant this change