Log any issues related to the Dingy Cutworm development.
Thu, Oct 10
would've been nice
Sep 13 2019
Sep 4 2019
Missing cut and strip length tolerances. There is a tolerance table on the heater cartridges, but no electrical tolerances on this drawing. Could use more detail on the inside of the cartridge, potting material, installation depth, length of insulation inside the cartridge.
Probably want to make the tolerances on the heater and thermistor holes unilateral with -0 to ensure no fitment issues with the thermistors and heater cartridges.
Probably want the ID of the gear to be a unilateral tolerance with +0 to ensure good grip on the hobb knurled section.
Probably want to make that 5mm callout on the ends a unilateral tolerance to avoid interference where it goes into the bearing. More detail on the hobbgoblin profile and especially the knurling major diameter spec since that gets pressed into the titan large gear (we saw an issue with this on the v3 gear hobb setup).
The tolerance block doesn't cover the 9.000 hole where the bearing goes, we will probably want to set that as a unilateral tolerance so that we don't run into interference with the bearing.
Also no tolerances on dimensional callouts here.
Not seeing any tolerances on this drawing.
I received 100 of the black oxide screws listed above and they work with the die cast heatsink
Aug 29 2019
Glad I asked, those look sweet!
Them being black definitely reinforces wanting black screws.
@west just for my own curiosity do you have any pics of the die cast heat sinks?
I don't see any issue with using those, I think it will look better than the silver ones. Lets do it!
E3D can't drill and tap those holes right away and if they do set up for that the cost savings will be minimal from the milled heat sinks.
@west found some self-tapping screws that should blend better than the stainless steel: https://www.mcmaster.com/90935A135
We are still looking at a new screw with a phillips head instead of a hex.
Aug 26 2019
@logan, they dont tap the holes for the fan for us. We are essentially wedging the screw between the fins. With the new heatsink, the holes no longer align with gaps between the fins, there are untapped posts.
The plan is to roll this new heatsink in on all aero toolheads. @adam do you know the saving going to the new heatsink?
@west They currently tap those locations for us in the machined heat sinks right? Is there concerns with doing so for the die cast ones?
Ultimately, socket cap hex heads are sturdier and the self tapping screws are Phillips if I remember correctly. The aesthetic appearance will change due to the color of the fastener also. This would require stocking a different fastener as well.
Would this heat sink change apply to all Aero hotends?
Aug 20 2019
I did some thermocouple testing on a regular heatsink and a die cast to see the differences by placing thermocouples in the fins both at the top and bottom. On average they are very similar
This is the v8 version of the drawing. The 150 micron nozzles no longer have a question mark after the length of the orifice which is nice. There are a couple additional radius callouts, and the angle of the outside cone is called out.
Jun 3 2019
Reassigning this to Adam as he was working on wiper pads.
Apr 1 2019
this process was documented in the "Lulzbot whitepapers" if anyone knows what thoes are.
Mar 31 2019
I did some research over the weekend, and found a thingiverse page where someone described how they're making their own wiper pads. They're using .25 inch polyester felt, Mcmaster part# 88085K311, cutting them to length, then soaking both sides in Lulzjuice (abs dissolved in acetone). He said thiat this process was documented in the "Lulzbot whitepapers" if anyone knows what thoes are. I think this is exactly what we've been using. Links below;
Feb 26 2019
Jan 7 2019
Jan 2 2019
There have been a few reports of this out in the field, and there are a few tickets that we have of this issue with videos. Ticket ID's 188148 and 189829.
Dec 21 2018
Just started a print on a Taz 6 with the HS Toolhead equipped to it. Printing with ColorFabb PA-CF low warp filament. Print started at 50°C for the heat bed and clicking was consistent. I stopped the print, adjust the heat bed to 80°C and the clicking seems to have stopped. Just figured I'd put this here even though it is the HS Toolhead as this issue seems to be both Toolheads. We have had reports on the SL .25 Toolhead doing so as well.